Dar es Salaam

For a great day trip, head out to Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Mashua Waterfront Bar & Grill at Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 8,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 25,000Tsh which includes a round trip plus the US$10 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 10:30AM, 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one leaves around 4:30PM. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks grilled prawns, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.. Another option is to buy food at the Shrijee's supermarket at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things on Bongoyo. Take a hike around the island, snorkel in the clear waters to the southwest of the island snorkeling gear may be rented on the island for 6,000Tsh per set per day or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are 5,000Tsh and a chair costs 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or a meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings and other crafts at the market. Walk to the south toward the Doubletree Hotel from the main part of Slipways, past the boatyard, to find many cheaper market stalls.

Mbudya Island is a smaller island just north of Bongoyo. To visit, take a taxi or bajaji to the White Sands Hotel, located near Kunduchi. Two-way tickets can be purchased for 10,000 Tsh per person, with a minimum of 4 people per boat, and there is an additional 10,000 Tsh park fee when you get to the island. The popular side of the island has beaches, bandas, a small bar, and a food pavilion though the menu is very limited. Beers go for about 3,000 Tsh. There is also a somewhat nicer, though more expensive, bar on the northern end of the beach. The rest of the island is mostly rough cliff face, which can make for some interesting hiking, though this is not advised if you don't have good shoes and dependable balance the rocks are very sharp and scrambling is sometimes required. The last boats back to White Sands leave between 4:30 and 5:00pm, though you can stay a bit longer if you are willing to take a smaller, overcrowded boat back to the Sea Breeze hotel, which is south of White Sands.

For a great excursion in the city to see the "real Dar," you should do an "Investour." Investours (http://investours.org/ind...) runs microfinance poverty tours, and you get to meet and talk to local entrepreneurs, see the Mwenge woodcarvers market in a behind-the-scences experience, and even have a local Tanzanian lunch with some of the craftsmen. Your fee is then used as an interest-free microfinance loan given to the entrepreneur of your choice--out of the ones you met during the day. Most people come to Dar without experiencing the true aspects of the city: abject poverty and the desire of most individuals from all over Tanzania to strike it big here. It is an important cultural part of Dar es Salaam, and an Investour should definitely be something you consider to do.

At Slipways, the Waterfront Bar and Grill is decent and is open long hours, but the best dining experience is on The Terrace, which generally opens around 7PM on weeknights and 6PM on weekends. The coffee shop next to The Terrace served pretty good food and excellent coffee as well.

There are quite a number of night clubs in Dar es Salaam. Probably the most popular in City Centre is Bilicanas, which is lively and sometimes not quite as full of prostitutes as the other clubs. It is popular with locals and ex-pats alike. Music is varied, depending on the night, from local to Congolese to dance to hip-hop. The only time I've ever heard hip-hop played right before Aqua's "Barbie Girl"; the place goes nuts when they play the cheesy songs. California Dreamers is another nearby club, but it is too full of prostitutes to recommend. There are numerous other smaller clubs that can be fun, but harder to get to. On the Peninsula, Sweeteazy has great live bands, sometimes with their own dancers every Thursday and Saturday? evenings. There is always a mixed Tanzanian/expat crowd dancing. Cover charge is Tsh 10,000 but if you have supper there it's free!

Hiking is possible in the Pugu Hills, some 12 KM west of the airport. Selected villagers can assist as guide for a hike around the Pugu Hills or to the major cattle market of Dar es Salaam. Arrangements are through the Pugu Hills Nature Centre (http://www.puguhills.com). For directions to Pugu Hills see web site.

If you like to have a chillout evening, the Mediterraneo Lounge has a large collection of chill-out music. At the Mediterraneo Hotel & Restaurant Lounge you can enjoy the fantastic view of the Indian Ocean while sipping your favourite drink, and listening to the best lounge & chill-out music in Dar Es Salaam. More in town and therefore somewhat less romantic but still beautiful, on the Peninsula, check out very attractive Coral Beach restaurant $$$, right on the ocean, from where you can watch the sun set.

Massage Try High Care Massage at the Slipway for a very professionally organized place. There are signs for lots of other massage and spa centres around town. Two places favoured by ladies in landcruisers are Lemon on Haile Selassie Road next to George & Dragon pub or the Spot on Chole Road opposite the taxi stand.

Movies There are modern cinema halls like Cineplex in Nyerere road at the Quality Centre Mall which is the largest Cinema in Dar-es-Salaam, Century Cinemax at Mlimani City tel. 0715 246362and New World Cinema on Bagomoyo/Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road tel. 022 277 1409The latter hosts the annual European and Asian film festivals. You can buy DVDs on every corner but beware, many are defective Chinese counterfeits, poorly produced, and/or lack English translation.

Sports The Yacht Club on the Peninsula is a gorgeous place but requires membership fees. You can enter as someone's guest and swim in safety or boat. It, and other places around town, offer scuba-diving lessons. Gymkhana, on Gymkhana Road in town, has tennis courts and a nice golf course. Coco Beach is a public beach on the Peninsula which is very busy on weekends. Go any afternoon to see people relaxing, and eat local food. But don't walk on beach as muggings are too frequent. A few people surf here when waves swell a bit around the full moon. You can sometimes surf or kite surf at the beaches south of Dar, e.g. at Kasa Beach Hideaway fantastic wide beach and surf-able waves in June. There's yoga three times a week Mondays Golden Tulip Hotel, Thursday and Saturday at Dar Fitness Centre and capoeira at 6PM at the Little Theatre beginners on Mondays, intermediate Wednesdays, and tae kwon do also at the Little Theatre, Wednesdays at 6. Kickboxing is also available.

Culture Read weekly 'What's Happening in Dar' and 'Advertising Dar' to get all the news of what's going on, including weekend get-away specials. There are always events like dance and music performances, artist openings at painting and photography galleries, movie festivals etc. Alliance Francaise,Goethe institute, Iranian and Russian cultural centres offer special events along with some occasionally sponsored by Embassies.

Graham
London

Mikadi Beach Lodge is 1 km from the Kigamboni Ferry and and excellent place to stay or enjoy the beach. Entrance is TSH3000 but an overnight is recommended